Wales has hundreds of waterfalls, some celebrated in legend and thronging with visitors. Others, virtually unknown, remain hidden away – still quiet, tranquil and free of trampling feet.
These may be less charismatic but are perhaps more charming for their relative isolation. One hidden gem candidate is a smaller waterfall in Conwy county that packs a punch for what else it offers: as well as a very large plunge pool, alongside it is a slightly mysterious cave.
Getting there may involve getting your feet wet but the effort is worth it. This waterfall is in a gorge of ancient rocks and woodland above the Conwy Valley that’s been designated a conservation site. Huge boulders tumble down a small river, which feels dark under a dense canopy of oaks and creepers.
The river’s name, Afon Dulyn (Black River) speak of old fears and superstitions. It flows from a Carneddau mountain lake with its own eerie reputation down through Tal-y-bont before entering the River Conwy. The waterfall is on the river’s lower reaches and a road that runs close by, makes accessing it so much easier.
The B5106 from Tal-y-Bont is steep: you know it’s steep from the number of salt bins lining the road. There’s one at a sharp corner (what3Words: ///solution.undertone.sprawls) next to a gate with just enough room at the roadside to park a car. Through the gate, a track leads down to the river, which needs to be forded to continue upstream.
There are a number of small falls on the river but the one you want is not too far uphill. It doesn’t have an official name. The waterfall plunges horsetail-style a modest 23ft down a rockface, which can be climbed for more impressive views.
Relative to the fall, the pool below is big, suggesting water flows can become more dynamic when the river is in full spate. Otherwise, the flow is modest as the river’s water is partly diverted to the Eigiau and Cowlyd reservoirs higher up. Sign up now for the latest news on the North Wales Live Whatsapp community
Next to the 23ft waterfall is an old mine adit
(Image: Snowdonia/Eryri Skies)
Beyond both sides of the gorge, the land is given over to sheep pastures. Within it, the trees feel close. The wider area has a history of hydro power and metal mining, and at the waterfall there’s evidence of the later.
To its left there’s an opening in the rock, a metre above the water. In summer it’s partly obscured by dangling ferns. From outside the old mine adit looks as if it runs deep: in fact it’s fairly short.
The pool’s water is clear but dark in the shade. Cold too, if you’re tempted to dip. Usually the place is peaceful and tranquil: you’ll be unlucky if you’re not alone.
Around 90 acres of the gorge (Ceunant Dulyn) was designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest in 1961. Now managed by Natural Resources Wales, it’s considered an “almost untouched setting” for its plants and wildlife.
The footpath ends at the waterfall, so you’ll need to return the same way. Taking photos of the fall last autumn was Snowdonia/Eryri Skies, an online site set up six months ago to showcase the beauty of North Wales. The site said the waterfall is not the easiest to find, adding: “It can be tricky to get to depending on the weather. I’d say in summer a 2 and in winter/wet conditions a 3. A good pair of walking shoes would be recommended.”
The dark and brooding waters of Llyn Dulyn
(Image: Chris Andrews/Wiki)
Afon Dulyn descends from the Black Lake, whose name foreshadows its brooding reputation. Dammed in 1881, to supply water-starved Llandudno, and later repurposed for hydro energy, it’s in a bowl surrounded by tall cliffs.
It’s not one of the area’s largest lakes but it’s one of its deepest, reaching down to 189ft. Folklore has it that its dark waters were home to deformed fish with bulbous eyes and were visited by the Tylwyth Teg – Welsh fairy folk. Lakes like Dulyn were reputed to be the path to Annwn (Hades), the underworld of the dead and the fairies.
Llyn Dulyn was also the “rainmakers” place. At the end of a stone causeway, now underwater, was the “Red Altar” where, if water was poured on its stone, it would rain within a day. Evil people were reputedly dragged into lake’s black waters by demons and, on “spirit nights” such as Halloween, people could see faces reflected of those about to die.
All of which is merely superstition – but the lake does have a certain bleakness: numerous planes have crashed into its cliffs, including an American Dakota in 1944 with the loss of all four crew.
The river which flows from the reservoir tumbles down to the Conwy Valley. In the gorge, it’s easy to imagine Llyn Dulyn’s pixies and goblins following in its wake. Sign up for the North Wales Live newsletter sent twice daily to your inbox
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