As the Year of the Snake approaches, there’s one question on every Londoner’s lips: where to feast? For Chinese New Year, or Lunar New Year, with the glittering lanterns swaying overhead and the scent of incense mingles with sizzling woks, I ventured into Soho’s Chinatown. I went to one of the most talked-about spots; Four Seasons on Gerrard Street. It was named the best restuarant in Chinatown by tourism board VisitLondon. But does it live up to the hype? My leftovers tell the real story.
VIBE This may share its name with the luxury hotel chain, but that’s where the similarities end – and that’s kind of the appeal of this place. Tucked away on Gerrard Street, it’s exactly what you want from a Chinatown institution: a symphony of sizzling woks, swift-moving servers, and the kind of aromatic assault that hits you like a delicious tidal wave. The controlled chaos is part of the charm.
THE MAIN EVENT The menu features the usual dishes – among them sweet and sour, lemon, and black bean sauces – but the go-to dishes here have to be those three pillars of Cantonese cuisine: roast duck, char siu pork and crispy pork
While I can’t personally testify about their world-famous duck (which, according to the Financial Times, is the best in the world), I can tell you about the vegetarian offerings that had me doing a happy dance in my seat. The braised mixed vegetables with tofu (£13.80) is comfort food that feels like a warm hug from your favorite auntie.
I’m sorry that I’m vegetarian – but it was still so yummy
The dumplings (£8 for 4) arrive like little parcels of joy, while the house special fried noodles (£14.80) are so generous they’ll sort out both lunch and tomorrow’s midnight snack. And trust me, in Central London, finding portions this generous is rarer than a quiet moment in Piccadilly Circus. And you can wash it all down with a Chinese tea (£2.80).
SERVICE But don’t plan on lingering over your Chinese tea – when it’s busy, those meaningful glances from the staff aren’t admiration for your chopstick skills. They might just be eyeing up your table to hand it to a family of five. Let’s be real – you’re not getting red-carpet treatment here. The service style is more “efficiency is our middle name” than “let me tell you about our hand-foraged mushrooms.” But when the food tastes this good, they could practically throw it at you and you’d still come back for more.
Gerrard Street’s Four Seasons is famous for its spectacular duck and BBQ meats
THE VERDICT While other restaurants in the area might be busy fusion-ing their way into confusion, Four Seasons sticks to what it knows: traditional Chinese cuisine done so well it makes you wonder why anyone would try to reinvent the wheel.
In a city where restaurants often try to be everything to everyone, Four Seasons is content being exactly what it is: a Chinatown stalwart that proves sometimes the old ways are the best ways. Just don’t expect to make it your new remote working spot – this place is for eating and eating only.
TIPS
- During Chinese New Year, expect it to be a little busy
- Gerrard Street’s Four Seasons is famous for its spectacular duck and BBQ meats
- If you’re going for the famous duck, be prepared for some serious food envy from neighboring tables
- You can find more info on the website here
- The address is 12 Gerrard Street, London W1D 5PR
- For more about the Lunar New Year celebrations in London, see our story here.
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